Thumper project 2004 is a simple valve spring replacement and installation of the Crane Shaft Rocker System and Stef's 8" deep oil pan.  New rod and main bearings. No block, rod or piston work. Same crane street solid roller cam (236/244/114LSA @ 0.050  .560/.579" lift with 1.6 rockers)

 
Crane Shaft Rocker System

The Crane shaft system has been on hold for a year now. I purchased it last year upon initial public offering from Summit. ($550). The iron base, (stands), do not line up perfectly with the rocker stud bolt holes in my LT4 heads so I had a machine shop clearance the crane iron base to fit. Cost $100 bucks. Also had to have my LT4 heads machined down at the rocker stud boss I think it was 0.125".  That was $100 bucks too. The system is designed for heads with taller valves so if I had taller valves then the machining would not be needed. Bought pushrods in 6.60 length and 6.50 length. Used 6.60 pushrods for 14 valves but used 6.50 pushrods for 2 valves. (Mistake corrected: Initially I said the pushrods were 7.5" long ).

That makes this system cost about $750 bucks which is close to the cost of other systems such as Jessel or T&D. 

No valve covers have been found to fit yet not because of height but because of width. These rockers are so wide that your valve cover has to be extra wide, (not extra tall). It's the back part of the rocker where the pushrod goes that is wide and hits the valve cover wall. I have a sheet metal set of Summit valve covers that fit fine accept they are also tall and thus will hit the heater hoses and even my forward setting alternator.  So I think I'm going to have to use my LT4 composite covers that just barely fit over the T&D shaft rockers right now in my 350 motor but also I'll have to grind off the Crane rockers in the area of interference because I compared the 2 rockers and the cranes are a tad wider. (the T&D's dang near touch now so the Cranes WILL touch)

By the way, this system is only for those who want something different. It's quite a bit of work but interesting and fun.

I even had to grind some material off of 8 rockers that come too close to my ARP head stud hex head nuts. If I had 12pt nuts or normal head bolts then I think they would not need clearancing.

I bought this Stef's Oil Pan and found that it will not clear the steering center link. Sent to Stef's and they notched it for me and I also had them install an oil sight glass. (could have had them install a spot for the dip stick but why not just "see" the oil level and forget the dipstick altogether) All total that was $100 bucks including oil sight glass. The oil pan is very expensive too, around $350 but its a superbly crafted and high quality piece. I can get 6 quarts of oil in there and never come close to the crank

Update June 2004:  Motor installed 6-12-04 in time for shake-down runs at MIR prior to shipping the car out to Vegas for the ISSCA Nationals.  Valve cover won't fit over the Crane rockers so I installed the T&D shaft rockers off of my 350.  Turns out that my valve cover that would fit, (but was being welded for heater hose clearance), was completed and waiting for me to pick up after I returned from Vegas.  12.081 best ET, 116.26 best MPH with 4.10 gears during 10 test runs at MIR 6-12 and 6-13.  Then the car shipped to Vegas and there ran 12.384 best ET, 113.24 best MPH with 4.56 gears, open headers, lots of ice on the intake and a special Vegas tune from Ed Wright. 

The Crankshaft:
Cast 400 2 piece rear main from corner of local machine shop floor.

The Pistons:
Lunati 4.030" forged #1311G2S3

The Rods:
Stock impala SS 5.7" from my original 95 impala SS

Inaugural run at MIR June 12, 2004
12.081 best ET, 116.26 best MPH
Then 2 weeks later at Vegas Nats
12.384 best ET, 113.24 best MPH
September 2004 (Back East)
11.780 best ET, 118.00 best MPH
October 2004 (Cold Air)
11.525 best ET, 117.87 best MPH
And now: Dec. 2004 (Even Colder Air)
11.408 best ET, 118.44 best MPH

The 2002-2003 combo consisted of a Crane Street Solid Roller Cam (236/244/114 @ .050" .560/.579" lift with 1.6 rockers, lash at .015"), GM LT4 heads worked by Terry Samakow, (valve job, 2.02/1.60" valves, intake gasket matched, unshroud combustion chamber), new tune by Ed Wright, Run at  MIR 4-6-03, 11.877 @ 115.70, 1.692 60' on a deep stage, 7.596 @ 90.90 1/8th.  Backup run 11.908 @ 115.01 

March 2002
       For Year 2002 I'm doing a simple refresh and reassembly locally with help from a buddy.  With the exception of 2 new pistons and new bearings and rings, everything will be reused.  I'm also rebalancing the rotating assembly.  Don't know yet if I'll continue with the solid roller .630 lift cam or pick something more mild.   These photo to the left is of the ARP main studs and the 2 piece rear main seal adapter, before going to the machine shop.  

And here are the raw parts:  Reused stock main caps and ARP main studs, New Clevite 77 main and rod bearings, box full of stock rods with Lunati pistons.  The crank set in place and the main caps and studs finger tight for now.

I recently bought Keith Brantley's used Crane 109831 cam, (222/230@0.050/112 Lobe sep., .543/.563 lift with 1.6 rockers).  I think I'll start by using this crane cam and my big valve steel heads.  Then I'll swap to the 2.00" ARE aluminum heads that are on my 350 right now.  I would also like to try a more mild solid roller cam later this year.

July 30th.  Spent more money on some tools and another set of Speed Pro™ file fit rings.  I had the rings gapped by the machinist but decided to go with the exact spec. on the Speed Pro™ instructions. (.018" 1st ring, 0.022" 2nd ring).  The photos to the left are of the ring file fit and installing the pistons and then torquing the rod caps.  I did not Plasigage™ the rods. 
I did torque the rod bolts to 0.006" stretch.  That worked out to be about 60 ft-lb.
  Here is what I spent this week on tools and rings:

Ring Set: $87
4.030 tapered piston install tool: $30
ARP 3/8" Rod Bolt crank protector: $25
Rod Bolt Stretch Gauge: $70

Add to above machine work and 2 new pistons cost = Grand total so far----$742 bucks.

Wasted money so far, $87 for 2nd ring set.
Borrowed stuff:  Torque wrench, ring file.

My degree rig

My ARP Studs

Painting the oil pan Chevy Orange

1st mistake today, 8-5-02.

I degreed the Crane cam and found that it was +6 with the crank sprocket at +4.  I then put the crank sprocket at the 0 mark and the cam degreed at +2.  I then put the crank sprocket at the -4 mark and the cam degreed at -2.  Looks like my crank or the key or something trivial is not allowing my timing set to position my cam straight up.  

Mistake #1: Over torqued my cam sprocket bolts.  One snapped and now I had to pull my cam to drill out the broken bolt.  This is not such a time set back, just a nuisance. 

LT4 heads and intake arrived from Dal, $1634 shipped.  They went directly to Samakow and they are going to install the crane 11309-1 spring/retainer kit.  I am also having them install the Crane 11310-1 spring/retainer kit on my iron LT1 heads.  It's costing me $60 to flow my heads but I really need to know exactly what the flow is to feed my curiosity.  I've been spending too much money lately for little things like springs and a second set of rings since I decided to gap the rings different than what Samakow gapped them at.  I also paid too much for the head studs.  I really don't need the LT4 heads but I figured, why the heck not.  Let's experiment.

Recent stuff cost summary:  
$120 - Flow test 2 sets of heads
$29 - Crane Valve Locks #99097-1
$144 - Crane Spring/Retainer kit 11310-1
$ ?? - Crane Spring/Retainer kit 11309-1
$144 - ARP Head Stud Set, (6 point)
$1378 - 2 LT4 Heads #12363287 from Dal
$213 - 1 LT4 Intake #12550630 from Dal
$87 - 2nd set of Speed Pro Rings
$5 - Thread sealant from parts store

Grand Total So Far: $2949 eek!
I still may buy a solid roller cam and I'll have miscellaneous machine shop charges for the spring install

Crane 109831 cam,
Big Valve LT1 head,
LT4 Head with 11309-1 spring kit

LT1 steel, LT4 stock

See the pointer at 2 BTDC

LT1 iron and LT4 heads return from the machine shop, 8-22-02.  Flow numbers below:

Now I'm seriously thinking about a mild mechanical roller cam from Crane, The PowerMAX Roller Cam #118571, (236/244/110 @ .050" .525/.543" lift with 1.5 rockers) 
Randy Stone's Desktop Dyno shows possible 507 ft-lb torque @ 3500rpm and 447hp @ 5000rpm using the LT1 steel head flow numbers.

Spent $60 more bucks to flow the LT4's, $144 bucks to set valve spring height on the LT1's and LT4's, +$70 after returning the 11310-1 spring kit and replacing with the 11309-1 spring kit.

Now on 8-23-02 I get some very good luck and insert one of the cam sprocket pin offset bushings from the Comp Cams part #4760.  I degreed my cam with my own cam degree kit that I won in a recent race at MIR.  This degree kit is for the heads on the motor so I just put the iron heads on temporarily.  The cam degreed absolutely perfect!  Intake open 4º BTDC, Intake close 38º ABDC, Exh open 52º BBDC, Exh close 2º BTDC.  The picture on the left shows the exhaust close 2º BTDC with the lift at 0.050".  
.

September 4th, 2002.  
Purchased Impala head gaskets, $24 each.  Installed LT4 heads, (bone stock accept Crane 99846 springs).  AFR REV KIT is under the heads.  See photos.  

Some notes:  
Impala gasket comp. thickness .029" gives 11.3 static compression.
Fel Pro gasket comp. thickness .039" gives11.2 static compression.
The Crane 11309-1 spring-retainer kit, (spring # 99846), is installed at 140# seat pressure. Cam card says to install at 115# seat.  The machine shop wanted more pressure.  The ARP head studs were torqued 40/60/80/80ft-lb.  

My compression calculation is from the following data: 
4.033" bore, 3.75" stroke, 57cc LT4 combustion chamber by my measure, 6.7cc impala gasket, .03" piston down in the block, 6cc piston dish by my measure.  

Using stock impala hydra. lifters and stock 1.5 rockers. The valve retainer to valve seal travel is only 0.525" and the crane cam card shows 0.528" exhaust lift with 1.5 rockers. ..not to worry that the retainer will pound into the seal because the valve won't open the full .528 in real life. 

Now is the time.  (Saturday September 14th, 2002)

Finally have the inspiration to pull the 350LT1 and swap the common parts and later install the 383.  Remember now, I decided to go with a mild 383 set up, (the Crane 109831, AKA GM 836 cam with unported LT4 heads and 1.5 rockers).  My street mechanical roller cam arrived via UPS yesterday but that cam will have to wait for when I get bored over the winter.  

I spent a hard 5 hours removing the 350LT1.  Did it alone and in the dirt.  I used a bunch of 3/4" plywood to help facilitate the engine cherry picker.  I just couldn't wait for the concrete pad that will be going in very soon. (critical zone permit applied for and money delivered to contractor....it's going to happen).

Only 1 goof during the pull....I wasted about 1 hour trying to figure out why the left side wouldn't pull up and out away from the motor mount.  Finally noticed that the motor mount bolt was not fully removed.

I heard that it is possible that your head stud or head bolt torque will not be "proper" if you torque with the rev kit installed.  Seems reasonable.  The rev kit is pushing up on the head.  I purchased the spring install tool from AFR for $42.68 shipped.  It's a small engine valve spring tool.  I decided to see for myself if head torque is affected by the rev kit.  

I already had the LT4 head studs torqued to 80ft-lb with the rev kit installed.  I then removed the rev kit and re-checked head stud torque.  The head stud bolts closest to the intake moved just a tiny bit before the wrench clicked 80ft-lb.  The 8 short head studs at the outer edge of the head were firm at 80ft-lb.  So although the studs closest to the intake valley were somewhat under 80ft-lb, I'd say they were "good enough".  I did not redo the other head after doing this experiment.  

ART CARR 9" 3200

383 wrapped to protect from my carelessness

Made it onto the motor mounts

RTV and ready for intake

And finally, on 9-20-02, I took her to the track:
Maryland Int'l Raceway, 74F, 79%RH, 29.95BAR, 
12.974 @ 105.19mph, <----was the only full run I had during 8 rounds of bracket racing.
(deep stage and 100lb trunk weight to try to slow to a 13.00)

No tune yet, I'm hoping to go a tad quicker with an Ed Wright tune.  It looked rich via Diacom but it still ran smooth.  I still have the stock throttle body and I hope to find time to bore out the LT4 intake to accept my 58mm TB...... Overall I'm very pleased at how it turned out.
Karl,   PS: check the Top ET page under Karl Ellwein (B) for exact details.

Got rid of the hydraulic lifters.  Installed my solid rollers and pushrods from last years circle track cam combo.  Installed the 58mm TB and Nabil Guffey ported my LT4 intake to accept the bigger TB.  Got a super tune from Ed Wright.  Put in freshly rebuilt tranny from Joe Neiman, (tranny was slipping 3rd gear and finally smoked 3rd gear).  Got rid of the Art Carr 9" experiment and went with the tried and true Pro Yank 3600 torque converter.  Now have a best of 12.499 @ 103mph (off throttle due to bracket race). and a 12.559 @ 109.46mph as a back up the same day.  Deep stage ET but very good weather.  I think with less gas/weight and shallow stage and iced intake and possibly pulling the belt, that I can get this combo into the low 12's.  Then after some porting of the LT4 heads and machining for more valve lift and adding the custom Crane street mechanical roller cam that is mentioned above, the combo might produce that 11.99 I've been working 3 years for.

Update 02-02-03:

Installed The Crane Street Solid Roller Cam Special #10SR00011 with 114 Lobe Center Angle(236/244/114 @ .050" .560/.579" lift with 1.6 rockers, lash at .015"), Had my LT4 heads worked by Terry Samakow, (comp valve job, 2.02/1.60" valves, intake gasket matched, unshroud combustion chamber), new tune by Ed Wright, Run at ATCO on 2-2-03, slight starting line spin, medium quick squeeze of throttle, 12.105 @ 112.29 with a 12.284 @ 113.78 backup.  Then at MIR on opening day, 3-8-03, 11.900 @ 114.30 and 11.908 @ 114.94 backup run.